Gâteau De Foie Blond At Le Suprême in Lyon, France
Steps from a busy subway stop in Lyon’s up-and-coming Seventh Arrondissement, you’ll find a door marked with a golden chicken. This is Le Suprême, a bistro launched last October by not one but two Daniel Boulud protégés: Grégory Stawowy and his wife, Yun Young Lee. An official “Embassy of Bresse Poultry” plaque proclaims that the free-range chicken on the menu hails from the Bresse region and bears the Appellation of Controlled Origin—a guarantee of quality—while inside, portraits of Bresse capons watch over the open kitchen.
Since it opened, this shrine to the art of cooking poultry has become celebrated for one particular recipe. “People are starting to come in just for the gâteau de foie blond,” Stawowy said. A chicken-liver custard created in the 19th century, it’s served in various seasonal presentations (illustrated here is a fall version, draped in a tomato coulis). For Boulud, who regularly dines at Le Suprême, the dish has fond associations. “My grandmother made chicken-liver custard on Sundays,” he said. “I can still smell it as it caramelized.” —Sylvie Bigar
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